Let’s Be Real: Moisturizers Don’t Add Water to the Skin

While the popular belief is that our skin absorbs water from the moisturizers, things aren’t always what they seem. For example:

Koala bears aren’t bears.
Jellyfish aren’t fish. Neither are starfish for that matter.
Peanuts aren’t really nuts.
And moisturizers don’t add water to the skin.

It’s a good thing our skin doesn’t absorb water.

If our skin could absorb water like a sponge, we would all swell up like giant blueberry every time we swam in the ocean. Built like a brick wall, the outermost layer of skin serves as an incredible barrier. This virtually waterproof layer protects us from outside elements including bacteria, mold, fungus, and the sun’s ultraviolet rays.

After preparing for a holiday meal such as a Thanksgiving dinner, we dry our hands on a dishtowel and our hands are just like we left them. The skin looks the same as before we washed all those dirty plates. One of the most important functions of skin is to prevent the body from losing water. Although the skin surface prevents water loss as best it can, it is not perfect and water constantly evaporates from our bodies into the environment. We lose less water on moist humid days than on dry cold days, which is why our skin is often drier in the winter.

Let’s be clear; effective moisturizers do not add water to the skin.

Moisturizers create an environment where water loss from the skin into the air is minimized. Well-formulated “moisturizers” contain ingredients called occlusives that form a film on the skin surface to prevent water evaporation. Petroleum jelly is an effective occlusive that decreases water loss from the skin into the environment by 98%. However, not everyone likes to use petroleum jelly because it can feel greasy on the skin.

Ingredients like silicone derivatives are used often in lieu of petroleum jelly, or in addition to it, to improve the feel of the product, though they do not prevent water loss from the skin as well. Effective moisturizers also contain additional ingredients called humectants, which help the skin hold onto water.

In conclusion..

Even the best moisturizers do not add water to your skin. In fact, they don’t really moisturize at all. The skin does that on its own. So what is the purpose of moisturizer? It creates an environment that allows the skin to hold onto its own water. Perhaps it would be more appropriate to call these types of products Fortifiers or Protectants or Shields.

By the way, fireflies aren’t really flies. And strawberries aren’t really berries.

About the Author

Fayne Frey, M.D., is a board-certified clinical and surgical dermatologist practicing in West Nyack, New York, where she specializes in the diagnosis and treatment of skin cancer. She is a nationally recognized expert in the effectiveness and formulation of over-the-counter skincare products, and, as a speaker, has captivated audiences with her wry observations regarding the skincare industry. She has consulted for numerous media outlets, including NBC, USA Today, and, the Huffington Post, and has shared her expertise on both cable and major TV outlets. Dr. Frey is the Founder of FryFace.com, an educational skincare information and product selection service website that clarifies and simplifies the overwhelming choice of effective, safe and affordable products encountered in the skincare aisles. Dr. Frey is a fellow of both the American Academy of Dermatology and the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery. Dr. Frey’s most recent addition to consumer education is her groundbreaking book, The Skincare Hoax.

Disclaimer: The original version of this article appeared in 50plus-today online magazine.