101 Series: Know Your Ingredient – NIACINAMIDE

There seems to be a new skincare superstar every month. It can be hard to keep track, but we are here to help! Niacinamide has been holding the attention for quite some time now, and for a lot of good reasons. From oral supplements to skin and haircare products, Niacinamide has become a popular ingredient, but what is it and why is it so special?

First – What is Niacinamide?

Let’s start with some basics – Niacinamide goes by several different names. Niacin, or vitamin B3, in its true form is a chemical compound called pyridine-3-carboxylic acid. Our bodies can’t naturally produce niacin, so we must get it through our diet. Some common food sources with vitamin B3 include plants (like avocado, green peas, and mushrooms), meat (like beef, liver, poultry, and fish), whole wheat (like bread, pasta, brown rice, and cereals), and peanuts. Once the tissues in the body absorb this vitamin, it is then converted to is metabolically active form, nicotinamide, or more commonly known as niacinamide.

Niacinamide is a water soluble molecule that is stable at pH 6. If the pH deviates too far from this, it could become unstable, reacting with water and form new compounds that potentially lead to skin irritation.

What Does Niacinamide Do? 

Vitamin B3 is essential for the human body to function properly, mainly pertaining to cardiovascular health and lowering cholesterol. When there is a deficiency, people can experience a disease called pellagra, which is characterized skin discoloration and rough textures. The cosmetic science industry has researched this ingredients and how this might apply to topical skin applications. The personal care industry commonly markets the ingredient as niacinamide and have found the following key skincare benefits:

• Anti-aging properties by boosting collagen
• Improving skin immunity by accelerating keratin production, keeping the skin layers intact and protected
• Increasing ceramide production to help support the skin’s lipid barrier, which serves as a protective wall against bacteria and keep moisture in the skin
• Reducing redness and inflammation
• Regulating sebum production
• Evening out skin tone and texture

Interesting Fact: When Niacin supplements are consumed in higher doses, a side effect known as “Niacin Flush” may result. During this phenomena, the capillaries on the skin surface are dilated which gives the face a reddened appearance. Although harmless, it can be intense and uncomfortable. Considering how Niacinamide can be used to reduce skin redness, the skin flushing adverse effect is quite ironic. Everyone’s skin is different, so be cautious to test the product with higher concentrations of Niacinamide.

Word of Caution: Higher concentrations of Niacinamide can cause inflammation and irritation. Most published studies have usage levels between 1-5%. 

Thinking About Trying Niacinamide?

Niacinamide has a variety of benefits. Lynnette Greber, an experienced corporate cosmetic scientist with an expertise in skincare products, shares more on the ingredient…”Niacinamide started as a buzz-worthy ingredient for topical skincare products, but it’s been continuously well-received through the last few years. It’s now becoming a staple ingredient in skincare with many options and forms to choose from,” Lynnette says. “At appropriate dosage, it’s been shown to be effective in producing a wide range of benefits — from normalizing oil production to improving skin tone. Consumers are re-buying it because they are seeing these benefits and marketers like it because they can position the products and benefits in a variety of ways.”

And unlike other skincare products that you have to be careful with incorporating in your routine, Niacinamide does not carry the same risk. As Lynnette says, “Niacinamide is versatile enough to also be layered with most other ingredients in your skincare regimen, such as retinol and salicylic acid. Formulation scientists love it too, as it’s fairly stable to heat and light. I’d say that so far, it has secured its spot on the beauty shelves!”

Niacinamide seems to have earned its popularity. Let us know in comments if you’ve used any products with Niacinamide and your experience!

References 

1. ​​Ando H, Matsui MS, Ichihashi M. Addendum: Quasi-Drugs Developed in Japan for the Prevention or Treatment of Hyperpigmentary Disorders. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2010, 11, 2566–2575. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2010; 11(7):2699-2700. [Link]
2. George Decker. The Benefits of Niacinamide | Innovadex. (2014). [Link]
3. Hakozaki T, Mlnwalla L Zhuang J el al. The effect of Niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br. J Dermatol, 2002, 147 (1): 20-31. [Link]
4. National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 936, Nicotinamide. [Link]
5. Niacin and Niacinamide molecular structures by Margaret Hillyer via ChemDraw
6. Niren. NM Pharmacologic doses of Nicotinamide In the treatment of Inflammatory skin conditions: a review. Cutis 2006, 77(1 Suppl):11-6. [Link]
7. Niren NM, Torok HM. The Nicomide Improvement in Clinical Outcomes Study (NICOS): results of an 8-week trial. Cutis. 2006 Jan;77(1 Suppl):17-28. PMID: 16871775. [Link]

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